Category: AI

  • I Tried a New Gadget to Track a Hidden Chemical in My Home

    You might be surprised what a dedicated formaldehyde sensor can tell you about the air you breathe every day.

    It’s funny, you can spend so much time picking out the perfect sofa or the right shade of paint, but you rarely think about what they might be leaving behind in the air. I recently went down a rabbit hole on indoor air quality and stumbled upon a topic I hadn’t considered much: formaldehyde. It turns out, this stuff is in a lot of household items. That’s when I decided to try a dedicated formaldehyde sensor to see what was really going on in my home.

    You see, I already have a general air quality monitor, but it lumps all sorts of airborne chemicals (called Volatile Organic Compounds, or VOCs) into one big reading. It’s helpful, but not specific. Formaldehyde is one of the most common indoor pollutants, and I wanted to know its level specifically. It can be released from things like new furniture, plywood, glues, and even some fabrics for months or years. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), high concentrations can cause irritation and health issues, which is why monitoring it felt like a smart move.

    My Experience with a Dedicated Formaldehyde Sensor

    So, what’s the point of getting a specific device? General VOC sensors are great for a broad overview, but they can be triggered by everything from cooking fumes to scented candles. They can’t tell you if you have a low, persistent level of a specific chemical. A dedicated formaldehyde sensor isolates this one pollutant, giving you a much clearer picture.

    The one I tried was a newer model, and what I appreciate is that the creators are still actively tweaking it. They’re releasing firmware updates based on user feedback, which tells me it’s a product that’s evolving. It’s not just a “set it and forget it” gadget from a massive, faceless company.

    Setup was simple. I just plugged it in and let it acclimate. For the first few hours, it gets a baseline reading of your environment. Then, the interesting part begins.

    What This New Formaldehyde Sensor Actually Revealed

    I started moving the sensor around my apartment, and the results were pretty eye-opening.

    • The Office: My new desk and bookshelf, both made from composite wood, were the biggest culprits. The readings were consistently higher in that room, though still within what’s considered a “safe” range. It was a good reminder to keep the window cracked open while I work.
    • The Living Room: After unpacking a new rug, I saw a noticeable spike that took a few days to settle down. It’s exactly the kind of “off-gassing” you hear about.
    • The Kitchen: Interestingly, cooking didn’t affect the formaldehyde reading at all, even though my general VOC sensor would go wild. This confirmed the specific nature of the dedicated sensor.

    Having this data didn’t make me paranoid. Just the opposite—it felt empowering. Knowledge about your indoor environment is the first step toward improving it. The World Health Organization (WHO) has long pointed to the risks of indoor air pollution, and tools like this make the invisible, visible. It’s less about hunting for a single source of panic and more about building healthy habits, like ensuring good ventilation when you get new furniture.

    So, do you need one? If you’re someone who loves digging into data, is sensitive to air quality, or is moving into a new or renovated space, a formaldehyde sensor is a fascinating and useful tool. It provides a layer of specific information that most general air monitors just can’t offer. For me, it’s been a welcome addition to my smart home, giving me one more piece of the puzzle to creating a healthier living space.

  • My Complicated Love-Hate Story: A Smartwings Blinds Review

    My smart home journey with these automated shades has been a real rollercoaster. Here’s the full story.

    I absolutely love it when a smart home device just works. You plug it in, it connects seamlessly, and it does its job without any fuss. It’s a little bit of everyday magic. For a while, that’s exactly what my experience was with my automated shades. This Smartwings blinds review is a story of when things were brilliant… right up until they weren’t.

    For the uninitiated, Smartwings is a company that makes smart, motorized window blinds and shades with a bunch of control options, including my personal favorite for local control, Z-Wave. I was so excited to get them set up and, for the most part, my journey has been great.

    The Good Stuff: My First Three Smartwings Blinds

    I started with one blind, then quickly bought two more. My first three purchases were, to put it simply, fantastic. Here’s what I loved about them:

    • Solid Construction: They didn’t feel cheap. The materials were good and they looked great on the windows.
    • The Magic of Solar: I opted for the solar panel accessory, and it’s been a game-changer. I haven’t had to think about charging or changing batteries once. The sun does all the work.
    • Easy Z-Wave Integration: As someone who uses Home Assistant, local control is a must. These blinds paired with my Z-Wave network (via ZWaveJS2MQTT) without a hitch and were immediately ready for automations.
    • Flawless Performance: “Good morning” routines that slowly open the blinds with the sunrise, “movie night” scenes that close them all with one tap… it all worked perfectly. It was the smart home dream.

    Based on this experience, I was a full-on Smartwings advocate. When it came time to automate another window, ordering a fourth blind was a no-brainer.

    A Frustrating Smartwings Blinds Review: When Things Go Wrong

    This is where my story takes a turn. My fourth blind arrived, and while it looked the same, it didn’t act the same. It paired to my Z-Wave controller just fine, but the controls themselves were… weird.

    In the smart home world, devices report their capabilities and status. For a blind, this is usually a “multilevel switch” that tells you if it’s open (100%), closed (0%), or somewhere in between (like 50%). My first three blinds reported this perfectly. This new one, however, seemed to have its signals crossed. The data coming from it didn’t match the others, and certain commands just wouldn’t work as expected.

    After a lot of digging, it seems to be a firmware issue. The fundamental code on the device’s chip appears to be configured differently, breaking the consistency I relied on for my automations. It’s like buying a fourth identical TV remote, only to find the volume buttons now change the channel.

    What’s more frustrating is the support experience. When I reached out to Smartwings, I felt like I was getting the runaround. The conversation has been slow, and I’m not feeling confident that a resolution is coming anytime soon.

    Troubleshooting Z-Wave: A Deeper Dive into This Smartwings Blinds Review

    For those who might not be deep into smart home tech, Z-Wave is a wireless communication protocol, similar to Wi-Fi or Bluetooth, but designed specifically for smart home devices. It creates a reliable, low-power mesh network that’s fantastic for things like sensors, light switches, and, yes, smart blinds.

    The beauty of a standard like Z-Wave is that it’s supposed to ensure interoperability. A Z-Wave blind should work with a Z-Wave hub, period. But this only holds true if the manufacturer’s firmware correctly follows the established standards. When it doesn’t, you get problems like the one I’m facing. An inconsistent firmware build means that even though I bought the same product, I didn’t get the same result.

    After searching through forums and communities, it doesn’t seem to be a widespread complaint, which makes it all the more confusing. Am I just unlucky?

    The Verdict: Are They Worth the Risk?

    So, where does that leave me? It’s tough. Three of my four blinds are some of my favorite smart devices. The fourth is a persistent headache that has soured me on the brand.

    This experience serves as a good reminder that even with mature technology, manufacturing isn’t always perfect. A company can build a great product, but without consistent quality control and solid customer support to back it up when things go wrong, it’s hard to offer a wholehearted recommendation.

    If you’re considering Smartwings, you might get a fantastic product that works flawlessly. Or you might get a dud and find yourself in a support loop. It’s a roll of the dice. For more general smart home news and reviews, I often check out established sites like The Verge’s smart home section to stay on top of the industry.

    For now, I have one blind that I have to manually operate, which feels like a step backward in a home I’ve worked so hard to automate. It’s a first-world problem, I know, but it’s a frustrating blemish on an otherwise seamless smart home.

  • Feeling Overwhelmed by Your Smart Home? A Guide to a Rock-Solid Network

    Let’s cut through the noise and create a reliable smart home network setup that just works, step by step.

    It’s a familiar feeling. You start with one smart plug, then a thermostat, a few smart lights, and before you know it, you’re juggling a dozen apps and your Wi-Fi starts to feel a little… stressed. If you’re trying to build a connected home that’s reliable for both work and play, it’s easy to get overwhelmed. But here’s the good news: creating a rock-solid smart home network setup isn’t about having a degree in IT. It’s about making a few smart, foundational choices.

    Let’s cut through the noise. You don’t need to rewire your entire house or become a networking guru. You just need a clear plan to build a system that is secure, stable, and ready to grow with you. Whether you’re working from home, streaming on an Apple TV, or making sure your security cameras are always online, it all starts with the network.

    Why Your Smart Home Network Setup Starts with a Great Router

    Think of your internet connection as the water main coming into your house and your router as the plumbing that directs it everywhere. You can have the fastest internet plan in the world, but if the router can’t handle the traffic, everything feels slow.

    This is especially true with a house full of smart devices. Your laptop and phone need high speed, but your smart thermostat and light switches don’t. They just need a stable connection. This is where a modern mesh system, especially a tri-band one, is incredibly useful.

    A tri-band mesh system (like the TP-Link Deco series) creates multiple networks. This is the key to an organized and efficient setup. Instead of having one giant, chaotic Wi-Fi network where your work laptop is competing with your smart toaster for bandwidth, you can create separate, dedicated lanes for your devices.

    A Simple and Secure Strategy for Your Tri-Band Network

    So you have this powerful mesh router. How do you actually use it? The best approach for a secure and efficient smart home network setup is to segment your devices. It sounds technical, but it’s really simple. Here’s a breakdown:

    • Your Main High-Speed Network (e.g., 6 GHz or 5 GHz band): This is your VIP section. Reserve it for the devices that need the most speed and have the highest security needs. Think work laptops, your personal phones, and your main streaming device (like an Apple TV 4K). Nothing else goes here. This keeps it fast and uncluttered.
    • Your IoT (Internet of Things) Network (e.g., 2.4 GHz band): This is home for all your smart gadgets: thermostats (like Ecobee), smart switches (like Lutron Caseta), smart plugs, sensors, and cameras. These devices don’t need blazing speed; they need stable, always-on connectivity. The 2.4 GHz band is perfect for this, as it has a longer range and penetrates walls more effectively. More importantly, isolating them on their own network adds a massive layer of security. If one of those devices were to have a security flaw, it couldn’t easily access your main network where your personal computer lives.
    • Your Guest Network: This one is self-explanatory. When friends and family come over, they can connect to this network. It gives them internet access without giving them access to your personal computers, files, or smart devices.

    Segregating your network like this is one of the single most effective things you can do for both performance and peace of mind. For more on the benefits of network segmentation, you can read up on it from experts like the Wi-Fi Alliance.

    Choosing Your Smart Home “Captain”

    Once your network is in order, you need a central place to control everything. Juggling ten different apps is frustrating. You mentioned moving from Google Home to Apple HomeKit, and that’s a fantastic move for a streamlined experience. Using an Apple TV 4K or a HomePod as a home hub creates a reliable, local-first control center for all your HomeKit-compatible devices.

    But what about the devices that don’t play nice with HomeKit? This is where that little green box you have—the Home Assistant Green—comes in. Don’t be intimidated by it! Think of Home Assistant as the ultimate universal remote. It’s a small, dedicated computer that runs software designed to talk to everything. It can bridge the gap between your Google devices, your Aqara cameras, and your HomeKit world, bringing them all together under one roof. You don’t have to set it up on day one, but it’s the perfect next step for when you want to unify your entire smart home.

    Future-Proofing: Adding a NAS to Your Setup

    As your smart home grows, you’ll start thinking about data. Specifically, video from security cameras and a central place for family photos and media. This is where a Network Attached Storage (NAS) device comes in.

    Don’t let the name scare you. A NAS is just a small, low-power computer with hard drives in it that sits on your network. It’s your own personal cloud storage. For a beginner, a company like Synology makes it incredibly easy. With a NAS, you can:

    • Set up a Network Video Recorder (NVR): Instead of paying monthly fees for cloud storage for your Aqara cameras, you can have them record directly to your NAS. It’s more private and cheaper in the long run.
    • Create a Media Server: Store all your movies, music, and photos in one place and stream them to any device in your home, from your TV to your phone.

    Starting your smart home journey can feel like you’re staring at a huge, tangled ball of wires. But by focusing on the foundation first—a clean, segmented smart home network setup—you create a reliable base to build upon. From there, you can layer on your central controller like HomeKit and eventually expand with powerful tools like Home Assistant and a NAS. Step by step, you’ll build a smart home that isn’t just smart—it’s stable, secure, and genuinely helpful.

  • Goodbye, Big Tech: How I Built a Private DIY Voice Assistant

    A step-by-step journey into creating a custom, offline voice assistant for Home Assistant that actually respects your privacy.

    I finally did it. I kicked Big Tech out of my smart home’s voice control. For years, I relied on the usual smart speakers, but a nagging feeling about privacy and a desire for more control pushed me to explore a different path. The result? My very own DIY voice assistant, running entirely locally on Home Assistant. It’s private, surprisingly capable, and wasn’t nearly as complicated to set up as I first feared.

    If you’ve ever felt a little uneasy asking a corporate microphone to control your lights, then this is for you. I’m going to walk you through why you might want your own voice assistant and what my journey looked like.

    Why Bother with a DIY Voice Assistant?

    Let’s be honest, commercial smart speakers are convenient. But that convenience comes with a trade-off. Your voice commands, your questions, and even background conversations are often sent to the cloud for processing. For me, that was the biggest motivation.

    Here’s why building your own is worth considering:

    • Total Privacy: This is the big one. With a local setup, the wake word detection and command processing happen inside your own home. Nothing gets sent to a server on the other side of the world. Your home’s data stays in your home.
    • Complete Customization: You get to be the creator. You can choose the wake word—no more “Hey Google” or “Alexa.” You can pick the voice, the accent, and exactly how it responds. Want it to reply with a movie quote when you turn off the lights? You can do that.
    • Offline Reliability: My internet went out for a few hours last month. While my neighbors couldn’t ask their smart speakers for anything, I could still control my entire house with my voice. Because it all runs on my local network, it doesn’t need the internet to function.
    • It’s a Fun Project: There’s a huge amount of satisfaction that comes from building something yourself. Creating a piece of your smart home that’s tailored perfectly to you is a rewarding experience for any tinkerer.

    My Journey Building a DIY Voice Assistant

    I’m not a programmer or a hardware engineer, just a curious enthusiast. My setup is built around the heart of my smart home: Home Assistant. It’s an incredible open-source platform that gives you ultimate control.

    The hardware for my voice assistant is surprisingly simple. The “ears” of my system are a ReSpeaker 2-Mic HAT, which is a small microphone array that sits on top of a Raspberry Pi. This little board is designed specifically for voice applications and does a great job of picking up commands without me having to shout. You can find these and similar boards over at Seeed Studio’s website.

    The magic really happens in the software, all configured within Home Assistant’s built-in voice assistant pipeline. Here’s a simple breakdown of how it works:

    1. Wake Word: A tiny, efficient model runs on the device, listening for my custom wake word. It’s always on, but it’s not recording or sending anything until it hears that specific phrase.
    2. Speech-to-Text (STT): Once woken up, it records my command (e.g., “Turn on the kitchen lights”). Home Assistant’s STT engine processes that audio and converts it into text, right on my local server.
    3. Intent Recognition: Home Assistant then takes that text and figures out what I want to do. It recognizes “turn on” as an action and “kitchen lights” as the target. This is where it connects to all the devices you already have in your smart home.
    4. Text-to-Speech (TTS): After executing the command, the system uses a TTS engine to talk back to me. It might say, “Okay, turning on the kitchen lights.” I got to choose a voice that I found pleasant to listen to.

    The first time I said my wake word and watched the lights turn on, I had a huge grin on my face. It felt like I had unlocked a new level of smart home mastery.

    Is It a Perfect Replacement?

    So, is this setup ready to completely replace a commercial speaker for every task? Honestly, not quite. It won’t tell you jokes on demand or give you complex weather reports without some extra setup. Its strength is in reliable, fast, and private control of your smart home devices.

    The setup required some patience and a bit of reading through the official Home Assistant voice documentation. But the community is massive, and the documentation is better than ever. The entire project, from unboxing the parts to issuing my first command, took me a weekend.

    For me, the trade-off is well worth it. I’ve gained a level of privacy and control that no off-the-shelf product can offer. My smart home is now truly my smart home. If you’re tired of being the product, I can’t recommend building your own DIY voice assistant enough. It’s a journey that puts you back in charge.

  • Access All Your Computers From a Single Browser Tab

    Access All Your Computers From a Single Browser Tab

    Stop installing clients. Here’s how you can access your remote computers from anywhere, using just a standard web browser.

    Have you ever been away from your main computer, maybe on a friend’s laptop or just using a tablet on the couch, and suddenly needed to access something on it? Maybe it’s a file, an application, or just to check on a running process. The usual solution involves installing a dedicated Remote Desktop client, but what if you can’t, or don’t want to, install software on the device you’re using? It turns out there’s a wonderfully elegant solution: using a browser-based RDP client.

    It’s a simple but powerful idea. Instead of a dedicated app, you just open a web browser, navigate to a local URL you’ve set up, and get a full remote desktop session right there in the tab. It feels a little like magic the first time you see it work. You get all the power of a remote connection without needing to install anything on the client machine. This is perfect for home lab enthusiasts, IT professionals, or anyone who wants a more flexible way to manage their machines.

    So, What Exactly Is a Browser-Based RDP Setup?

    Normally, to connect to a Windows machine remotely, you use the Remote Desktop Protocol (RDP). This requires a client application, like the one built into Windows (MSTSC) or Remmina on Linux.

    A browser-based RDP solution adds a middleman—a web server that you host yourself. Here’s the flow:

    1. You open a browser on any device (a laptop, tablet, or even a phone).
    2. You navigate to the web app’s URL (e.g., `http://remote.yourhomenetwork.com`).
    3. You log into the web app.
    4. The web app presents you with a list of your configured computers.
    5. You click one, and the server opens the RDP connection for you and streams the desktop session directly to your browser as if it were a video.

    All the heavy lifting is done by your server. Your browser just needs to render the HTML5 stream, something every modern browser is great at.

    The Best Tool for the Job: Apache Guacamole

    When it comes to self-hosted, browser-based remote access, one name stands above the rest: Apache Guacamole. Don’t let the quirky name fool you; it’s an incredibly powerful and mature open-source project.

    Guacamole is a “clientless remote desktop gateway.” In simple terms, it’s a web application that provides access to your desktops. Because it’s “clientless,” you don’t need any plugins or client software. Just a web browser.

    While we’re focused on RDP for Windows machines, Guacamole’s flexibility is one of its best features. It also supports other common protocols, including:

    • VNC: A popular alternative for remote desktop on Windows, macOS, and Linux.
    • SSH: For secure command-line access to servers.
    • Telnet: An older command-line protocol.

    This means you can create a single, unified web portal to access all of your devices, whether they’re graphical desktops or headless servers.

    Getting Started with a Browser-Based RDP Gateway

    Setting up a tool like Apache Guacamole might sound intimidating, but it’s more accessible than ever, especially if you’re familiar with Docker. The official Apache Guacamole documentation provides a fantastic guide for getting it up and running with Docker Compose.

    At a high level, the setup involves running a few Docker containers that work together:
    * guacd: The core proxy daemon that translates connections.
    * guacamole: The web application itself.
    * A database (like PostgreSQL or MySQL) to store user and connection data.

    Once it’s running, you log into the web interface, and from there you can configure all your connections. For each one, you’ll specify the protocol (RDP, VNC, etc.), the IP address or hostname of the target machine, and the authentication credentials.

    Are There Any Alternatives?

    While Guacamole is the most popular choice for this specific task, the world of open-source remote access is vast. A few other projects offer similar, browser-based functionality, though they often have a broader focus. Tools like MeshCentral and RustDesk are excellent remote management suites that also include browser-based access as a feature. They are fantastic projects worth exploring if you need features beyond simple session proxying.

    But for a dedicated, self-hosted gateway to access your existing machines right from a browser tab, it’s hard to beat the focused power and simplicity of a browser-based RDP setup using Apache Guacamole. It’s a game-changer for managing a home lab or just having convenient access to your digital life from anywhere.

  • My Home Lab Is a Mess. Is It Time to Split It Up?

    My Home Lab Is a Mess. Is It Time to Split It Up?

    Rethinking my home lab setup and the classic debate: one beefy server or two specialized machines?

    My Home Lab Is a Mess. Is It Time to Split It Up?

    I’ve hit that classic crossroads that many tech tinkerers eventually face. My all-in-one server, which started so simply, has become a bit of a tangled mess. It’s got me seriously thinking about my home lab setup, and whether it’s time for a major restructure. I have two machines—one new and powerful, one older and gathering dust—and I’m trying to figure out the best way to use them both. Maybe you’re in the same boat.

    Here’s My Current Home Lab Setup

    Right now, my entire operation runs on a slick little Beelink Mini PC. It’s a SER5 MAX with a Ryzen 7 6800U processor, and it’s been a fantastic workhorse. It’s running Unraid and handles everything: my NAS, Plex for media streaming, the whole suite of *Arr containers, a personal website, and a few home automation apps.

    The storage is a bit… unconventional. The Beelink has two zippy 1TB SSDs inside, but all my media lives on four big hard drives in a 4-bay DAS (Direct-Attached Storage) enclosure that’s hanging off the mini PC via a USB cable. It works, but it feels a bit precarious. And in the corner, my old gaming PC—a respectable AMD Ryzen 7 1700—is sitting completely idle. It feels like a waste of potential.

    The Big Idea: A Split Home Lab Setup

    So, I’ve been sketching out a new plan. Instead of one machine doing everything, why not give each computer a specialized job? It seems cleaner and more logical.

    1. The Dedicated NAS: My older Ryzen 7 1700 machine would be pulled out of retirement. I’d move the four hard drives from the DAS directly into the PC case. It has the space and the SATA ports, after all. Then, I’d install a dedicated NAS operating system like Unraid on it. Its sole job would be to store files safely and serve them over the network.

    2. The Dedicated Virtualization Host: The powerful Beelink Mini PC would be freed from storage duties. I’d wipe it and install Proxmox on it. With its fast processor and internal SSDs, it would become a dedicated hypervisor, running all my virtual machines (VMs) and containers like Plex, my website, and other apps.

    Is This a Better Home Lab Setup? Weighing the Pros and Cons

    This is where the real questions come in. Splitting roles sounds great in theory, but is it actually a good use of my hardware? I’ve been weighing the pros and cons.

    The Upsides:

    • Simplicity and Stability: Each machine has one clear purpose. If I need to reboot my Proxmox server to test a new app, my NAS and all its files stay online, completely unaffected.
    • Better I/O Performance: A DAS connected over USB is a classic bottleneck. By moving the hard drives into the older PC with native SATA connections, my storage performance should be much more reliable. No more worrying about a USB cable getting jostled.
    • Focused Resources: The Mini PC’s fast CPU and SSDs are perfect for running applications, while the older PC is more than capable of handling file-serving tasks. Each machine gets to play to its strengths.

    The Downsides (and My Rebuttals):

    • Power Consumption: This is my biggest worry. The old Ryzen 7 1700 will definitely use more power at idle than the super-efficient 6800U in the mini PC. But how much more? After some research on sites like ServeTheHome, a great resource for this kind of hardware, the consensus is that while it will be higher, it might not be as dramatic as I think, especially at idle. The stability gains might be worth a few extra dollars on the power bill.
    • Is 8GB of RAM Enough? The old machine only has 8GB of RAM. Is that enough for a dedicated Unraid NAS? For my plan, the answer is a resounding yes. Since all the heavy lifting (Plex transcoding, VMs, etc.) is moving to the Proxmox server, the NAS will just be… a NAS. It will serve files. Unraid itself is very lightweight, and 8GB is plenty for basic file storage and maybe one or two very lightweight utility containers.

    My Verdict: I’m Splitting My Home Lab

    After thinking it through, I’m going for it. The proposed home lab setup just makes more sense.

    The current all-in-one approach is convenient, but it’s also a single point of failure and creates performance bottlenecks. Separating the roles of storage and services feels like a more mature, robust architecture for a home lab that’s growing beyond a simple hobby. The increase in power consumption is a valid concern, but one I’m willing to accept for the significant gains in stability, performance, and peace of mind.

    The plan is set as of August 2025. The old Ryzen will soon be humming away as my dedicated Unraid NAS, and the Beelink Mini PC will become a pure Proxmox virtualization server. It’ll be a fun weekend project, that’s for sure.

    Every home lab is a personal journey, a constant evolution of hardware and software. This feels like the right next step for mine. It’s about creating a system that’s not just powerful, but also resilient and easier to manage in the long run.

    What do you think? Have you ever considered splitting your own setup? I’d love to hear your thoughts and experiences in the comments below.

  • My Homelab Started Simple. Now It Feels Like a Second Job.

    My Homelab Started Simple. Now It Feels Like a Second Job.

    What starts with a single server can quickly become a complex ecosystem. Here’s the story of how my passion project became a source of anxiety.

    It all started from a simple place: a love for computers.

    I’ve been running what you might call a “homelab” for over two decades. It didn’t start as some grand project. It was just a network hub, a couple of older computers, and a passion for tinkering. One machine handled network storage, and another, believe it or not, ran a Lotus Notes server for my email. It was simple, fun, and entirely manageable. But over the years, a slow, almost invisible force took over: homelab creep. What began as a simple hobby has gradually morphed into something that feels less like a passion and more like a small enterprise system I’m constantly trying to keep from collapsing.

    It all happens one small step at a time.

    The Slow March of Homelab Creep

    You don’t just wake up one day with a rack of servers humming in your basement. It begins with a single, perfectly reasonable thought: “I can make this a little better.”

    For me, it started with the basics. Why use my internet provider’s DNS when I could have more control? So, I set up a Pi-hole. But what if it fails? That led to setting up three Pi-hole instances for redundancy. Then came the DHCP server. A simple ISC server worked fine for years, but then I discovered KEA DHCP. It offered more features, so I set it up in a primary and secondary configuration with a Postgres backend.

    Of course, managing that from the command line was a bit of a pain. The logical next step? Build a custom web front-end for it. Each solution created a new, slightly more complex problem, and I was all too happy to solve it.

    Chasing Reliability and Adding Complexity

    With a growing number of virtual machines and containers, I realized I was flying blind. I needed to know what was running, what was struggling, and what was about to fail. So, I added a monitoring solution. Then I needed a slick dashboard to see it all at a glance, so in came Glance. But what good is monitoring if you don’t know when something breaks? That meant I needed a notification system, so I set up NTFY.

    This is the heart of homelab creep: every new layer of complexity is a solution to a problem created by the last layer.

    The real turning point for me was when I decided I wanted to run my own Certificate Authority (CA) to issue SSL and SSH certificates for my internal services. I dove in and set up Smallstep, a powerful open-source CA. It was a fantastic learning experience, but it also added another critical piece of infrastructure I was now responsible for maintaining.

    When Your Homelab Creep Demands Full Automation

    Things were getting out of hand. Managing everything manually was becoming a chore. The updates, the configurations, the new VMs—it was too much. So, I decided it was time to learn Ansible.

    I dove in headfirst, writing playbooks to automate everything:
    * Updating all my VMs and containers.
    * Spinning up new virtual machines from templates.
    * Checking for available container updates.
    * Renewing my internal certificates.

    Ansible was powerful, and for a while, it felt like I had finally tamed the beast. But then, a new anxiety emerged: how do I know if my automation is actually working?

    This was the final, almost comical, step. I set up my Ansible scripts to write their status to JSON files. Then I wrote a simple Python web server to parse those files and feed the data into my Glance dashboard. I had now built a monitoring system to monitor my automation system, which was built to manage the complex system that my simple hobby had become.

    The House of Cards

    Today, I find myself surrounded by six computers, five Raspberry Pis, a standalone NAS, and a web of VMs, containers, and scripts I built myself.

    The simple joy of tinkering has been replaced by a low-level anxiety. I feel less like a hobbyist and more like a sysadmin for a small, quirky, and incredibly fragile business. It’s a house of cards, and I’m just waiting for one wrong move or one failed component to bring it all tumbling down.

    It’s overwhelming. This intricate system I’ve poured years into now feels less like an achievement and more like a burden.

    Does any of this sound familiar? Have you ever felt the pressure of your own homelab creep? I’m sure I’m not the only one who has gone down this rabbit hole. Check out communities like the /r/homelab subreddit to see you’re in good company. I’d love to hear your story in the comments below.

  • Clean Up Your TrueNAS Share: A Guide to Better SMB Permissions

    Clean Up Your TrueNAS Share: A Guide to Better SMB Permissions

    Tired of users seeing folders they can’t open? Here’s the simple fix for your TrueNAS SMB permissions to hide what they don’t need to see.

    You’ve done it. You’ve set up your awesome TrueNAS server, you’ve created a bunch of datasets for things like photos, documents, and backups, and you’ve even set up individual user accounts for your family or teammates. You’re feeling pretty good about your new, organized digital life. But then you log in with one of those limited accounts and notice something… odd. They can see every single folder, even the ones they can’t open. It’s not a huge security flaw, but it’s messy and confusing. If this sounds familiar, you’re not alone. It’s a common hurdle when you first start dialing in your TrueNAS SMB permissions.

    The good news is there’s a super simple fix that cleans this all up, hiding folders from anyone who doesn’t have the keys to open them.

    Why Does TrueNAS Show Everything by Default?

    First, don’t worry—your server isn’t broken. This is actually standard behavior for SMB (Server Message Block), the protocol Windows and other operating systems use for network file sharing. By default, it tells everyone what folders are available, and only when someone tries to open one does it check if they have permission.

    For a home user or small business, this isn’t ideal. It creates visual clutter and can lead to questions like, “Hey, what’s in this ‘Admin_Backups’ folder and why can’t I open it?” It’s just… tidier to have people only see what they can actually access. Think of it as the difference between a building directory that lists every office, including the secret ones, versus one that only shows you the offices you have a keycard for.

    The Magic Setting: Better TrueNAS SMB Permissions with ABE

    The feature that fixes this is called Access Based Enumeration, or ABE. It sounds technical, but it’s just a fancy term for “if you can’t access it, you won’t even see it.” When you turn this on, TrueNAS will check a user’s permissions before showing them the contents of a share.

    Here’s how to enable it. It takes less than a minute.

    1. Log in to your TrueNAS web interface.
    2. Navigate to Sharing on the left-hand menu, and then click on Windows Shares (SMB).
    3. You’ll see a list of the shares you’ve created. Find the one you want to clean up, click the three dots on the far right, and select Edit.
    4. A new screen will pop up with all the settings for that share. Click on Advanced Options at the bottom.
    5. Scroll down until you find a checkbox labeled Access Based Share Enumeration. It’s usually about halfway down the advanced list.
    6. Check the box!
    7. Click Save.

    That’s it. Seriously. Now, when a user connects to that network share, they will only see the folders and files that they have been granted permission to read or modify. The rest will be completely invisible.

    Fine-Tuning Your TrueNAS SMB permissions

    Enabling ABE is a share-level setting, but it works hand-in-hand with your dataset-level permissions. ABE decides what to show, while your ACLs (Access Control Lists) decide who can actually get in.

    This is an important distinction. For ABE to work correctly, you still need to have your underlying permissions set up properly.

    • Dataset Permissions: This is where you define the granular rules. On your Storage Pool, you can edit the permissions for each dataset, specifying which users or groups can read, write, or execute files within it. This is the foundation of your security.
    • Share-Level ABE: This is the visibility layer on top. It simply respects the dataset permissions you’ve already configured and hides things accordingly.

    If you’re new to setting up permissions, the official TrueNAS documentation on SMB Shares is an excellent resource. For a deeper dive into what ABE is doing under the hood, you can even check out the original Microsoft documentation on the feature.

    After you enable ABE, always remember to test it. Log in from a computer using one of your restricted user accounts and browse the network share. The folders you wanted to hide should now be gone, leaving a much cleaner and less confusing experience for everyone. It’s a small change that makes your professional-grade server feel a little more user-friendly.

  • How I Stopped Overthinking My Server Storage Design

    How I Stopped Overthinking My Server Storage Design

    Choosing the right server storage design for your home lab doesn’t have to be complicated. Let’s talk Proxmox, ZFS, and TrueNAS.

    You’ve got the hardware. It’s sitting there, a powerful server humming with potential. You’ve got a stack of hard drives ready to go. But then you hit the wall. Not a technical wall, but a mental one. The paralysis of planning. I’ve been there, staring at a pile of components, trying to map out the absolute perfect server storage design before I even install the operating system. It’s a common trap for anyone building a home lab, but getting it right from the start can save a ton of headaches later.

    So let’s talk it through. You have a goal: to run a hypervisor like Proxmox, spin up some virtual machines (VMs) and containers, and start hosting cool applications like a self-hosted photo manager. But the big question looms: how do you handle the storage for all that data?

    The Hardware and the Dream

    Let’s imagine a common scenario. You have a server, maybe an enterprise-grade Dell or HP, with a handful of large capacity spinning drives (like 10TB SAS drives) for bulk data. You also have a couple of faster, smaller SSDs for things that need more performance, and maybe even a pair of tiny M.2 drives on a special card (like Dell’s BOSS card) intended for the operating system.

    The dream is simple: run Proxmox as the base OS, and then use VMs and containers for everything else. This is an efficient, popular way to run a home lab. But the dream hinges on a solid storage foundation.

    The Big Debate: A Good Server Storage Design

    This is where things get tricky and where most of the overthinking happens. When using Proxmox, you generally have two popular paths for a robust server storage design:

    1. ZFS Directly in Proxmox: You install Proxmox on your boot drives and then use its built-in capabilities to create a ZFS storage pool directly from your data drives.
    2. TrueNAS in a VM: You install Proxmox, create a virtual machine, install a dedicated storage OS like TrueNAS SCALE inside it, and pass your HBA controller (the card your data drives are connected to) directly to that VM.

    On the surface, the TrueNAS option sounds amazing. You get a beautiful, dedicated web interface for managing your storage, with tons of powerful, easy-to-use features for snapshots and replication. It’s a purpose-built tool for the job.

    But here’s the catch: it adds a significant layer of complexity. To get your other VMs and containers to use that storage, you have to share it back to Proxmox over the network using something like NFS or SMB. This can create a performance bottleneck, especially for applications inside Docker containers that need fast access to their data. You’re also creating a single, critical point of failure. If your TrueNAS VM has a problem and won’t boot, your entire storage pool is offline.

    Running ZFS directly in Proxmox, on the other hand, is beautifully simple. It’s tightly integrated, fast, and reliable. There’s less overhead and no network layer to worry about for accessing data. As the saying goes, “simpler is usually better.”

    My Choice for a Modern Server Storage Design

    After weighing the pros and cons, I’m a firm believer in the direct approach for most home lab scenarios. My recommendation is to manage your ZFS pool directly within Proxmox.

    Here’s why:

    • Simplicity and Stability: You remove an entire layer of abstraction (the TrueNAS VM and the network sharing). This makes your setup easier to manage, troubleshoot, and much more stable in the long run.
    • Performance: Your containers and VMs have direct, block-level access to the storage they need. You avoid the potential performance penalty of running everything over a network share, which is a real concern for I/O-intensive apps.
    • Proxmox is Powerful Enough: While TrueNAS has a slicker UI for storage, Proxmox’s own ZFS management is incredibly capable. You can still easily manage pools, datasets, and snapshots right from the Proxmox interface or the command line. For more information, the official Proxmox ZFS documentation is an excellent resource. For a deeper dive into this exact comparison, sites like ServeTheHome often have great discussions on the topic.

    What about backups? The appeal of TrueNAS’s backup tasks is strong, but you can achieve the same result in Proxmox. You can set up scripts for ZFS snapshotting and replication, and for crucial data, using an offsite backup service like Backblaze B2 is a fantastic and affordable strategy anyway.

    Don’t Forget The Boot Drives

    What about those small M.2 drives for the OS? A mirrored pair of 480GB drives might seem small, but it’s typically plenty of space. The Proxmox OS itself uses very little. The key is to only store the operating systems for your VMs and the definitions for your containers on this fast storage. All the actual data—your photos, documents, and media—should live on the large ZFS pool you created with your spinning drives.

    This setup gives you the best of both worlds: a snappy, responsive OS and fast-booting VMs, combined with a massive, resilient pool for your important data.

    In the end, the goal is to build something useful, not to get stuck in a loop of “what-ifs.” Start simple, start stable. A clean Proxmox installation with a directly managed ZFS pool is a rock-solid foundation that will serve you well as you build out your home lab. Now go get that OS installed!

  • Your Home Lab is Growing. Is Your Network Ready?

    Your Home Lab is Growing. Is Your Network Ready?

    Expanding your setup from one server to two? Here’s how to handle your home lab networking without the headache.

    So, your home lab is starting to feel a little cramped. That single server, once the pride of your setup, is now begging for a friend. You’re thinking of getting a second host, maybe for more complex projects or just to have a failover. But then it hits you: your entire network is virtualized, running as a VM on that first machine. This is a common growing pain for many of us in the tech community and a crucial moment in your home lab networking journey. When you add a second host, you need a network that lives outside both of them.

    It’s a classic problem. Your current setup, likely with a virtual router like VyOS or pfSense running on ESXi, has been perfect. It’s efficient and self-contained. But the moment you introduce a second physical server, that elegant solution becomes a single point of failure. If your first host goes down for maintenance (or just for fun), your entire lab, including the new server, gets cut off from the network.

    It’s time to move your networking from the virtual world to the physical one. It might sound intimidating, especially if you’re more of a software person, but I promise it’s a logical and rewarding next step.

    Why Your Virtual Router Can’t Scale to Two Hosts

    Think of your virtual router as an apartment building’s intercom system that’s wired to the superintendent’s apartment. It works great for buzzing people in, but if the super goes on vacation and turns off their power, nobody in the building can talk to each other or let guests in.

    When your router is a VM on a single host, that host is the superintendent. Adding a second server is like building a second apartment building next door. You need an independent, standalone intercom system—a physical network—that can serve both buildings equally. This ensures that all your VMs and services can communicate with each other, and the internet, regardless of the status of a single host.

    Your First Step into Physical Home Lab Networking

    The heart of your new physical network will be a managed switch. You might be tempted by a cheap, simple “unmanaged” switch from a big-box store, but that would be a step backward.

    • Unmanaged Switches: These are simple plug-and-play devices. They’re great for extending your home Wi-Fi to a TV and a game console, but they don’t understand complex concepts like VLANs (Virtual LANs). Since your lab is already using VLANs within VyOS, you need a switch that can handle them.
    • Managed Switches: This is what you need. A “managed” switch is a smart switch that you can configure. Its most important feature for a home lab is support for VLANs. This lets you keep your lab traffic separate from your home traffic, or create different network segments for different projects (e.g., a “dev” network and a “testing” network).

    For those new to physical gear, I’d strongly recommend looking into the Ubiquiti UniFi or TP-Link Omada ecosystems. They offer powerful managed switches that are configured through a clean, user-friendly web interface. You don’t need to be a command-line wizard to get started. You can find their product lines on their official websites, which are great places to compare models.

    Finding a Router to Replace Your Virtual One

    With a physical switch in place, you still need a router to manage the traffic between your VLANs and connect everything to the internet. You have a couple of great options here.

    1. An All-in-One “Prosumer” Router: The easiest transition is to get a router from the same ecosystem as your switch. The UniFi Dream Machine (UDM) or a TP-Link Omada Router are fantastic all-in-one solutions. They act as a router, a firewall, and a controller for your switches and access points. It’s a seamless experience and the perfect entry point.
    2. A Dedicated Router Appliance: If you love the power and flexibility you had with VyOS, you might prefer a dedicated router box. You can buy a small, low-power PC and install open-source routing software like pfSense or OPNsense. This gives you incredible control and is a direct, more powerful successor to a virtualized router. It’s a bit more hands-on but is the gold standard for many advanced home labs.

    A Simple Home Lab Networking Setup to Get Started

    Don’t overthink it at the beginning. Your goal is to get a stable, physical foundation built. Here’s a simple, reliable blueprint for your new home lab networking configuration:

    1. Connect your Internet Modem to the WAN (internet) port of your new physical router (like a UniFi Dream Machine or your pfSense box).
    2. Connect a LAN port from your new router to your new managed switch.
    3. Connect your two ESXi hosts, your desktop computer, and any other wired devices to the managed switch.

    That’s it for the physical connections! From there, you’ll log into your router and switch’s web interfaces to configure your VLANs, firewall rules, and IP address ranges. It’s the same logic you used in VyOS, just applied to physical hardware. For a visual guide, you can find excellent tutorials on YouTube or tech sites like ServeTheHome, which provides in-depth reviews and guides for this kind of hardware.

    Taking the leap from a virtual to a physical network is a right of passage for any home lab enthusiast. It opens the door to more resilient, complex, and powerful setups. It might seem like a big jump, but by choosing beginner-friendly gear and starting with a simple layout, you’ll build a rock-solid foundation for whatever project comes next. Welcome to the next level of your lab!